January 14, Kathmandu, By Upendra Rajbanshi
A large section of the Nepali population resides in the Kathmandu valley, but much of the cultural diversity has not been reflected in the lifestyle of the capital. As a part of the story, numerous delicacies from Nepali kitchens are yet to find a place in the food culture of Kathmandu.
Bhakka, a delicacy from eastern Nepal, has been gaining some traction in recent times. ‘Bhakka House’ and ‘Mr Bhakka’ are some of the brands building around the growing popularity of the dish in Kathmandu while many unbranded stalls have started selling Bhakka in the capital.
The dish is now so popular that the 14th of December (29th of Poush as per the Bikram Samvat calendar) is celebrated as the ‘National Bhakka Day’ in Nepal. Many are unaware of the fact that the dish comes from the Rajbanshi community of Jhapa and Morang district of eastern Nepal.
Rina Rajbanshi, a 24-year-old student, is proud that Bhakka is a part of her culture. She believes that the plain nature of Bhakka makes it perfect for every taste preference. ‘The recipe is also very simple. Who would not prefer anything so tasty yet so simple?’ she adds.
Bhakka is made up of rice flour. The flour is slightly soaked and rounded with hands, stuffed in a metal bowl, and then wrapped inside a cotton cloth. The bundle is then placed on a mud plate called parsan which has a hole on its base. Parsan is placed over a mud pot called pauni. The rice inside the bowl is cooked by the steam passing through the hole in the parsan. The rice cake is then served usually with a chilly-powered tomato or coriander chutney (pickle).
For Bipin Kumar Rajbanshi, a social leader, Bhakka has more qualities than just taste. ‘Bhakka is steamed, and there is no use of oil while making it. So, it is good for your health,’ says Bipin. ‘The healthy recipe makes it highly consumable, adding to its popularity among people outside the Rajbanshi community.’
Gita Rajbanshi, a teacher, sees the revival of Bhakka as the revival of Rajbanshi culture.
‘The influx of people from other ethnicities had influenced the Rajbanshi culture to a large extent. In such a situation, a realization of the importance of originality has hit us. Our originality is reflected in our cultural costumes and cuisine,’ says Gita. ‘I feel that every Rajbanshi cherishes Bhakka as a continuity to our cultural roots.’
Gita also observes that Bhakka has been a favourite of her students. ‘It is a great alternative to junk food. And students just love it. I feel good when I see them consuming healthy food.’
According to the 2021 census, approximately 132 thousand Rajbanshis live in Nepal. Rajbanshi culture spreads around lower Assam, northern Bengal, and eastern Bihar of India, the northern part of Bangladesh, and eastern Terai of Nepal. The estimated global population of the community is about 12 million.
Unique food and music are integral to Rajbanshi culture, of which Bhakka is a representative. Although listed as an ‘indigenous ethnic group of Terai’, the community has not received significant support from the state in the conservation and promotion of its culture. The revival of Bhakka has certainly highlighted the unique lifestyle of Rajbanshis, but the community has a lot more to offer.