In the picturesque village of Upper Pisang, Manang Ngisyang Rural Municipality-1, resides Yangdung Gurung, a 79-year-old man known for his distinctive white beard. Despite the scorching heat in the mountains and plains, he dons a black fringed jacket as he goes about his daily activities. In his advanced age, he relies on the marrow of yaks for sustenance. Displaying dried meat known as sukuti, collected the previous November, he shares, “The more you preserve, the more financial security you have. Guests struggle to chew it.”
Located along the path to Upper Pisang Village, one can spot a Chyorten, a stupa built to protect the village, which Yangdung himself constructed. Just a turn to the right from the Chyorten leads to his humble abode. Despite his age, he possesses sharp vision and keeps a close eye on people attempting to cross the bridge from Lower Pisang. With a hint of pride, he declares, “I can read the text on a mobile phone with my own eyes, so why not people?”
Yangdung, at 79, takes care of his 84-year-old wife, Mrs. Changbuti Gurung, cooking and feeding her. He even handles the dishwashing himself. After completing his household chores, he finds solace on a bench in Kausi. Snow leopards and aged books on rural development are placed before him, accompanied by small stones. Old calendars, visiting cards, and pictures adorn the walls. Yangdung affectionately describes these items as his friends, stating, “I look at them from time to time, and it brings me joy.”
Engaging in occasional social work, Yangdung visits Chame and Upper Manang. He also travels to Bensi Sahar for development projects. Snowfall blankets the region from May to January, burying homes under its weight. While others struggle with the cold, Yangdung confesses, “I, on the other hand, relish it. I enjoy playing in the snow. Sometimes, I only go out during winter when it snows. Otherwise, I prefer to remain in the village.”
In the past, Yangdung ran a hotel named Yak and Yeti in his home. The hotel boasted seven rooms and employed two workers before its closure due to the COVID-19 pandemic. During the conflict era, the hotel even offered STD/ISTD telephone services. Out of Yangdung’s six sisters, four reside in the village, while the remaining two live in Kathmandu. His 13-year-old daughter, Doli Gurung, currently lives with her sister in Kathmandu, as their mother passed away eight years ago at the age of 94 in the village.
Yangdung expresses that his older sisters prefer to stay in the village, as they find city life overwhelming. He likens it to consuming poppy seeds and adds, “I will return to the village after winter.” He spends January and February in Kathmandu and then returns to his homeland.
As the only son, Yangdung did not receive a formal education. From the ages of 8 to 16, he studied as a Lama. He has traveled to nearly a dozen countries and possesses basic English language skills. During his father’s time, when he served as the Pradhan Panch (head) of Pisang Village Panchayat, three guthis (communities) existed in the village. His father led the Shramdan, a collective effort for development. Yangdung proudly states, “My father initiated the development
, and we are continuing his legacy.” He recalls that the construction of wooden bridges in Pisang began during his father’s tenure.
Manang faces agricultural challenges, as rice, corn, and millet are not cultivated there. The locals rely on apples, potatoes, and beans for sustenance. Snowstorms often destroy the crops, leading to food scarcity. Transporting paddy from the Terai region to Manang takes about a month, with arduous road crossings. During a visit by King Mahendra, Manangis shared their plight and appealed for assistance. As a result, the King permitted the sale of Manang’s medicinal herbs both domestically and abroad. The red seal provided by King Mahendra enabled Manangis to trade their herbs in countries such as Singapore, Malaysia, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Hong Kong, and Burma via India. Yangdung reminisces, “Initially, we collected herbs, but as their availability declined, we shifted our focus to purchasing and trading rings, gemstones, and garlands in Kolkata.” During his business ventures, he traveled to Darjeeling and Siliguri in India, as well as Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Cambodia, Thailand, and Vietnam. After spending five years in Thailand, he gradually returned to his homeland. Upon his return, he would bring shoes, sandals, belts, and clothes to Kathmandu for sale. With the money earned abroad, he constructed a three-story house in Kamalpokhari, Kathmandu, although he no longer possesses that property.
Yangdung and eight other individuals residing in Kathmandu jointly oversee village affairs. At the age of 37, they chartered a helicopter at a cost of 30,000 rupees to travel to the village. Presently, the cost of helicopter flights to Pisang amounts to 200,000 rupees. Additionally, Yangdung holds the position of vice-president in the Manang Samaj Kathmandu, and he has been entrusted with the role of Mhitheba (president) in his village. For 14 years, he served as the Mhitheba when the local administration was operated by government employees, before representatives assumed their roles. As Mhitheba, he resolved various issues and incidents occurring within the village, ensuring his decisions governed village matters. The village was under his guidance. Yangdung fondly recalls resolving cases related to theft, robbery, beatings, and disputes.
He laments that Manang still lags behind in terms of development. In the past, it took nine days to travel from Dumre in Tanahun to Manang, but advancements in infrastructure have reduced the journey to a single day from Kathmandu. He believes that developmental funds should be channeled directly to the village.
Reflecting on his past political involvement, Yangdung acknowledges that he initially joined the Maoist movement after the peace process to contribute to the country’s development. However, he notes that political parties, including the Maoists, Nepali Congress, CPN-UML, and RPPA, treat individuals equally. He concludes, “Nowadays, it’s all about party affiliation. It has been eight years since I left the Maoists. It’s a pity.” Preferring the serene lifestyle in Manang, he finds Kathmandu dusty and uncomfortably hot, making it unsuitable for long-term stays. He firmly declares, “I will die in the village.” Yangdung proudly shares that he has raised over 30 Yakchaunri, signifying his connection to the land and the community.